Ballaghbeama Gap is a narrow mountain pass between Blackwater and Glencar in County Kerry. It is a rewarding detour for anyone exploring the Iveragh Peninsula who wants rocky slopes, open moorland and a road with far fewer distractions than the main Ring of Kerry route.
The drive is short on paper but deserves time. Sheep wander freely, bends arrive without much warning, and the best views are the sort that make a 25-minute route take closer to an hour.
This Ballaghbeama Gap guide covers which way to drive, what the road is like, where to pause and how to fit it into a sensible Kerry day out.
Ballaghbeama Gap, also called Ballaghbeama Pass, crosses the mountains between the Blackwater side of the Iveragh Peninsula and Glencar. It sits inland from the N70, the road used by many people following the Ring of Kerry.
Approaching from the south, the pass is roughly a 20-minute drive from Kenmare to the southern end of the route. The northern side leads towards Glencar, making the pass useful for joining up inland Kerry without retracing the coastal road.
This is not a formal attraction with gates, a ticket desk or set opening hours. It is a public mountain road through a remote landscape, so your experience depends heavily on weather, visibility and your confidence on narrow rural lanes.
Yes, especially if you enjoy driving and do not need every stop to come with a café, car park and signboard. The appeal is the landscape itself: dark rock, rough grassland, mountain walls and a quietness that feels very different from the busier coastal sections around Kenmare and Sneem.
Ballaghbeama is often compared with the Gap of Dunloe because both involve dramatic Kerry mountain scenery and tight roads. Ballaghbeama generally feels more isolated. You may meet little traffic, but that does not make it a road for rushing. A sheep standing around a blind bend has no interest in your schedule.
It suits couples, photographers, cyclists with appropriate experience and self-drive holidaymakers who want a quieter stretch of the peninsula. It is less suitable for anyone uncomfortable reversing on a single-track road or travelling in a large vehicle.
Driving across Ballaghbeama Gap without stops takes about 25 to 30 minutes. Allow 40 to 60 minutes to drive it properly, including time to slow down for livestock, wait for oncoming traffic and pull in safely for the main mountain view.
Cyclists should allow around 60 to 70 minutes for the pass itself. The climbs, changing weather and need to share a narrow road make this a route for capable riders, not a casual spin between lunch stops.
| Route Option | Useful Planning Time | What To Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Drive straight through | 25 to 30 minutes | A slow single-lane mountain road with bends and livestock. |
| Drive with photo stops | 40 to 60 minutes | Time for the summit view and traffic delays at passing places. |
| Cycle the pass | 60 to 70 minutes | Mountain gradients, exposed conditions and narrow-road awareness. |
You can drive the pass in either direction. Starting near Blackwater is convenient if you are based in Kenmare or have been travelling along the N70 from Sneem. Starting around Glencar works well if you are continuing towards Killorglin or linking the pass with other inland parts of Kerry.
There is no wrong direction, and the scenery is good both ways. The useful approach is to choose the direction that avoids doubling back in your wider route. Do not treat Ballaghbeama as a quick shortcut, though. The road requires slower, more focused driving than the main roads around the peninsula.
The central section is largely single-track, with passing places used to let vehicles meet. Drive at a pace that lets you stop safely. On a blind corner, the vehicle coming the other way could be a car, a cyclist, a walker or a flock of sheep.
Use passing places considerately. If you see an approaching vehicle and a suitable pull-in is behind you, be prepared to reverse carefully. Do not block a passing place for photographs or use it as a long-term parking spot.
Phone coverage can be unreliable in the pass. Download your route before leaving Kenmare, Blackwater or Glencar, tell somebody where you are heading if you are walking or cycling, and carry enough fuel for the wider day. There are no services on the mountain section.
A paper Ireland road atlas is a sensible backup for a self-drive trip through rural Kerry, particularly when a mobile map loses signal.
The high point of Ballaghbeama Gap is the natural place to pause. The road passes through a rocky corridor, and the wider mountain views open around the top of the pass. Only stop where there is enough room to get fully out of the running lane and where you can rejoin the road with a clear view.
Conditions change the mood completely. In clear weather, the hills and exposed slopes are the headline. In low cloud or rain, the pass can feel enclosed and severe. Both can be memorable, but poor visibility is a reason to drive even more slowly, not a reason to chase a photo stop.
On the Glencar side, Lough Acoose is a useful named stop for a calmer waterside view across the surrounding mountains. It works particularly well as a pause after the tighter high section of the route.
Dry, clear conditions give you the best chance of seeing the full mountain setting, but Kerry weather is changeable and no forecast can guarantee a clear pass. Build flexibility into a road-trip day, especially if photography is high on the agenda.
Early morning and later afternoon can be quieter and give softer light on the rock and hills. Midday is still perfectly workable, but avoid assuming this road will be empty during popular holiday periods. Limited passing places mean even a handful of vehicles can slow progress.
In wet, windy or foggy weather, assess the road as you go. If visibility becomes poor, it is sensible to continue cautiously or turn back at a safe point instead of pressing on for a view that is not there.
The pass is not part of the signed Ring of Kerry circuit, but it is close enough to make a strong inland detour. A simple plan is to leave the N70 near Blackwater, cross Ballaghbeama Gap to Glencar, then continue north towards Killorglin or return to the coast later in the day. For a wider route beyond Kerry, this guide to Ireland’s west coast helps put the peninsula into a longer road-trip plan.
If you want a longer mountain-road outing, the Gap of Dunloe is another major Kerry pass. It is a different proposition: its narrow route can be busy, and drivers need to be ready for confined bends and limited passing opportunities. Combining both passes in one day is possible, but it makes for a slow driving day, not a relaxed dash between landmarks.
Moll’s Gap, on the Ring of Kerry near Kenmare, is another practical stop when building a route around the area. It has a shop and café at the crossroads, making it a useful contrast to Ballaghbeama’s completely service-free mountain section.
Kenmare is the most convenient base for people approaching from the south. It puts the Blackwater entrance within easy reach and also works well for exploring the Beara Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry. Glencar is better viewed as the pass-side exit than as a place to rely on for supplies.
Book a base before setting out on a full-day mountain route, especially if you do not want to drive unfamiliar narrow roads after dark. If Kerry is one stop on a shorter trip, a four-day Ireland itinerary can help keep the driving manageable.
Ballaghbeama Gap is one of Kerry’s finest drives for people who enjoy the road as much as the destination. It does not offer a polished visitor experience, and that is part of its character. Come prepared, give the route more time than the map suggests, and let the mountains set the pace. It also makes a memorable addition to a seven-day Ireland itinerary for anyone keen to spend time beyond the main towns and motorways.
Matt Hook is a Canadian writer of Scottish and Irish heritage. He built his writing career creating detailed gaming guides, turning complex mechanics, history and lore into useful information for readers. Matt brings that same research-focused approach to Ireland Wide, where he writes about Irish travel, heritage, history and culture. He also holds CMA and CPA designations as a professional accountant, giving him a strong background in research, accuracy and attention to detail.
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